Hearing Tripp Pomeroy’s account of his journey through Laos and Sumatra has provided a fascinating glimpse into the complexities and nuances of global coffee production, especially in regions less familiar to many. His reflections highlighted not only the logistical challenges of coordinating such a demanding trip but also the critical role personal connections and cooperative business models play in supporting fair-trade practices. What stood out most was Tripp’s deep respect for the resilience of the Laotian coffee farmers, who, despite facing challenges such as poverty, climate change, and geopolitical history, remain steadfast in their commitment to producing quality coffee and maintaining fair-trade principles.
1. When did you go to Laos, and where specifically did you go?
Tripp: We decided to head out in early mid-January. We left from Atlanta to Doha to Jakarta, where we spent a few days and traveled from Jakarta down to Yogyakarta, which is where Borobudur is located. We took a few days to really explore the area. It was fascinating culturally.
I know Latin America quite well, but this was very new to me. After visiting Borobudur, we went up to Sumatra to connect with the rest of the delegation members, which included Matt, who was our leader, as I mentioned, Joe, myself, Megan and Melissa, the co-owners of 44 Coffee up in Deer Isle, Maine, Jennifer from Higher Grounds, and another person in the delegation whose name I will remember later.
One thing I’ll note is that I’ve done a lot of traveling over my 20 years of doing this. The logistics of this trip were extremely complex. While the island itself is smaller and traveling there is actually pretty easy, coordinating all the flights between cities was challenging. This included traveling down to Yogyakarta, back up to Medan (where our trading partners are), which is the launching point to drive up to our trading partners in Sumatra in the Aceh province, then back down to Medan, and then over to Laos via Vietnam, through Saigon. There were only two flights into where we needed to go in Laos, specifically Paxi in the south of Laos.
There are two flights a week—on Tuesdays and Saturdays—so the logistics were wild. But the bottom line is that Sumatra has hosted delegations before. My partner, Bill Harris, has visited the Sumatran co-op. It’s a fantastic co-op, with beautiful coffee plants and excellent yields. However, we were the first formal co-op coffee delegation to meet with CPC Bolaven, the co-op in Laos. That was a significant milestone, and it was one of the best visits I’ve had with trading partners in my 20 years.
2. What were the most striking differences you observed between coffee production in Laos compared to other regions you’ve visited?
Tripp: Laos is very different from anywhere else I’ve visited. First, I’ve never been to Asia before. Second, Laos is a Buddhist country. We were down in Paxi, which is more rural than the capital, and the pace there is slower. The people reminded me a little bit of those in Georgia, but with a slow, mellow pace and a strong sense of authenticity that is common in coffee-growing regions. Geographically, it was fascinating, and the warmth of the conversations and the time spent together were incredibly uplifting, much like with most of our trading partners. By the end of the trip, we knew each other well, and I’m looking forward to going back next year.
Laos is very different from Latin America, Sumatra, and Ethiopia. It is the only fair-trade organic coffee cooperative in Laos, and they play a unique role in a one-party state by practicing the fair-trade model of empowerment and development. The coffee in Laos is reasonably priced, of good quality, and can work in blends or as a single origin, making it a solid coffee overall.
We saw their whole process, from start to finish. They have community collection centers where co-op members receive the coffee and manage quality control, fermentation, washing, drying, and sorting. We also visited the co-op’s main facility, where they aggregate all the coffee, sort it, and prepare it for export. We even cupped coffee with them.
The similarities in terms of solidarity and the cooperative business model were striking. They were very deep into community support, just like in Latin America. However, Laos is much more remote. Comparing it to Sumatra, for instance, their coffee plants were not as robust. Climate, experience, and access to resources all contributed to lower yields in Lao compared to Sumatra, where the coffee plants were practically gushing with cherries.
One interesting historical fact: the Bolaven Plateau, where the co-op is located, was where U.S. bombers during the Vietnam War would dump unused munitions before landing in Cambodia. So, there are still unexploded ordnances in the area, similar to the landmine issues in Colombia.
3. How did your interactions with the farmers and their communities impact your understanding of the challenges they face and the opportunities for growth?
Tripp: Two things come to mind.
First, the EU has implemented a deforestation law, which the co-op is handling well. They’re technologically savvy and have all their members’ plots geographically identified, with shade canopies logged. However, it’s an added stress on them to prove their compliance with this law. It feels ironic to me that yet another requirement is placed on people living in poverty.
They can meet the requirements, but how will buyers compensate them for the additional work? This point was raised in other meetings I attended, including in Latin America. For example, coffee farmers there often face threats from neighbors involved in coca production. If they document their shade cover, it might put them at risk. The intent of the law is understandable, but the extra work required for compliance is burdensome, especially when considering the large carbon footprint of wealthier countries.
4. Can you share any memorable experiences or anecdotes from your visit that illustrate the passion and dedication of the Laotian coffee farmers?
We visited a collection point, and I documented it in a video that I believe you have, Hugh, showing the collection station. Mr. Kahn, an older member of CPC Bolaven who runs the collection point in the community we visited, gave us a tour of how they receive, ferment, wash, and dry the coffee.
I posed a question, which was translated by a French consulting project manager, asking Mr. Kahn what message he would like us to convey to people who buy his coffee. While I don’t have the exact translation, I found the response thought-provoking. Fair-trade and organic coffee farming are urgent, daily matters for these farmers—they’re on the front lines of climate change and poverty.
What I saw in Laos, and with our other trading partners, was a real passion for creating a better world and a better quality of life for their families and communities. Their dedication isn’t just a necessity, although necessity does play a role. Their passion for hard work, cooperation, and treating the environment as a stakeholder in their efforts is truly inspiring.
Intrigued by this cooperative and their excellent coffee? Check it out here!!!
